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NEW
SOUTH WALES
Barrington
Tops National Park
Barrington
Tops is a twenty-five-kilometre long
plateau extending between a series of
extinct volcanic peaks in the Mount Royal
Ranges, an easterly offshoot of the Great
Escarpment. Eighty kilometres west of surf
and sand, as the black cockatoo flies,
one-and-a-half kilometre high mountains
rise to swirling mists. On a plateau
stretched between their summits, alpine
meadows awash with fragile wildflowers in
springtime spread out beneath snowgums'
open boughs. Melted snow becomes lithe
white water dancing down to the sea
through ancient beech forests bathed in an
ethereal green light. Pure clear water
flows from sphagnum moss swamps that
retain and slowly release great quantities
of water from the plateau, fed by mists,
melting snow and an annual rainfall
exceeding fifteen hundred millimetres.
More
than twenty valleys radiate from the hub
of the plateau. Wild rivers become
waterfalls plunging from great heights
into fern-lined gorges. In the river
valleys of the lowlands, weathered basalt
washed down from the mountains forms rich
alluvial soils. Rainforest in Barrington
Tops National Park is the southernmost
link in a chain of remnant rainforests in
central Eastern Australia protected by
World Heritage listing. Antarctic beech
forests cloaking the slopes above the
nine-hundred-metre mark are a living link
with the supercontinent of Gondwanaland,
where they evolved sixty-six million years
ago. Pollen of the genus Nothofagus dates
back to the Late Cretaceous period, when
Australia was still part of Gondwanaland.
It is believed the genus evolved after
links between Africa and South America
were severed. Today, it is found in the
mountains of New Guinea, New Caledonia,
New Zealand and southern South America and
relic rainforest in Tasmania. Nothofagus
is the southern hemisphere's
representative of the European
beech.
The
first stage of the Barrington Tops
National Park was dedicated in 1969 with
additions being made in 1982. The park
gained World Heritage Listing in 1986 and,
more recently, much of the area has been
declared Wilderness. The pure quality of
their water and their special aesthetic
beauty have enabled Boonabilla Creek and
the Paterson, Williams, Chichester and
Wangat rivers to be classified as Wild
Rivers. Fantastic views of forested
wilderness unfold from the highest peaks.
On a clear day from Carey's Peak, at an
elevation of 1545 metres, the white sands
of Stockton Beach may be visible as a
distant fine line above the rolling,
agricultural, green valley of the Williams
River, scooped out in a blue-green
wilderness of forest. At Mount Barrington,
at 1556 metres, a view to the western
slopes of the Tops overlooks grazing land
towards Scone in the Hunter River
Valley.
At
the Laurie Lookout in Gloucester Tops, it
is possible to see distinct changes in
forest types. Rising from the valley
floor, warm-temperate rainforest species
merge with wet eucalypt forest up the
slopes. Where the slope retains little
water, dry eucalypts thrive. Adjacent to
the subalpine swamp communities and
woodlands, grassy summits known as
'grassland balds' cap the
summits.
The
impressive array of habitats found in the
Barrington Tops nurtures half of the plant
species found in Australia and over
one-third of its mammals and birds. A high
concentration of gliders and owls,
including the barking owl, which emits a
blood-curdling human-like scream while
hunting at night, nest in hollows in
eucalypt forest that has never been
logged, saved by the rugged nature of the
terrain. The powerful, masked and sooty
owls, however, join twenty-three other
animals on the endangered list, including
the tiger quoll, the red-legged pademelon,
yellow-bellied glider, koala,
broad-toothed rat and sphagnum frog. One
of Australia's rarest birds, the tiny and
elusive rufous scrub bird, may be heard
singing a loud melodious song while
foraging on the forest floor adjoining
beech forest.
Barrington
Tops is home to the magnificent iridescent
blue-green paradise riflebird, which
belongs to the birds of paradise family,
often considered the most beautiful birds
in the world. Sometimes this bird can be
heard tearing rotten wood, in pursuit of
insects, with his strong curved beak. The
paradise riflebird decorates his
cup-shaped nest with cast-off snakes'
skins, probably the skins of diamond
pythons and green tree snakes, reptiles
which share his moist forest habitat in
wet eucalypt and temperate
rainforest.
This
park covers over 39,000 hectares on the
northern escarpment of the Hunter Valley
and forms the upper catchment area of six
rivers.
There
is vehicle access to three main areas of
the park: Barrington Tops, Gloucester Tops
and the Williams River area near Dungog.
There are roads and many walking
trails.
Two
linked high altitude plateaus fall away
steeply from almost 1600 to 400 metres,
and produce a marked climatic variation
from alpine at the peak, with snowfalls,
to temperate weather in the
valley.
The
park features unique vegetation and a wide
variety within a comparatively small area,
with sub alpine plants, rainforests, wet
and dry eucalypt forests, Antarctic beech
forests, open woodland, swamps, bogs and
fens.
With
patience ( and a torch at night) kangaroo,
wallabies, pademalons, bandicoots, quolls,
lyrebirds and feathertail gliders may be
seen. The best time to spot kangaroos is
when they feed, either early in the
morning or late in the afternoon. There
are picnic facilities throughout the park,
and camping is permitted.
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